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Gold Jewelry and the Myths Surrounding It

Published: 2022-07-19
Edited: 2026-11-13
Airidas Ulevičius
Airidas Ulevičius
Founder and Director of Auksinė svajonė, Master Jeweller

There are many myths surrounding gold jewelry: it is said that white or pink gold isn’t real, that a higher karat weight always means a better product, and that authenticity can be verified by biting it. In fact, the color and properties of gold are determined by the composition of the alloy, the karat indicates the amount of pure gold, and to assess authenticity, you need reliable markings or a professional analysis.

In short: Which myths about gold jewelry are false?

  • White and rose gold are real gold if the alloy contains the specified amount of gold.
  • A higher karat does not automatically mean a better piece of jewelry—gold with a higher purity is generally softer.
  • The number “585” on a piece of jewelry alone is not sufficient proof of authenticity.
  • Testing gold by biting it is not a reliable method.
  • White gold is not the same as silver or platinum.
  • Genuine gold jewelry can get scratched and show signs of wear.
  • Not all gold alloys are equally suitable for sensitive skin.

Let’s look at each myth individually.

Gold Jewelry and Myths: What’s True and What’s Not?

Myth 1: White and rose gold aren’t real gold

Not true. Pure gold is naturally yellow, but gold alloys are typically used in jewelry. By adding other metals to gold, the alloy’s color and mechanical properties can be altered. Therefore, gold can be:

  • yellow;
  • white;
  • pink;
  • or have a reddish tint.

For example, a reddish tint is usually achieved by increasing the copper content in the alloy. White gold is produced by alloying gold with whiter metals, and its surface is often coated with rhodium.

What matters most is not just the color, but the amount of gold in the alloy—the fineness. In 585-fineness white, yellow, or pink gold, the proportion of pure gold is 58.5% in all cases. We discuss the different shades in more detail in the article “Shades of Gold”.

Myth #2: The higher the gold fineness, the better the jewelry

Not always. A higher fineness means that the alloy contains more pure gold. For example:

  • 375 fineness – 37.5% gold;
  • 585 fineness – 58.5% gold;
  • 750 fineness – 75% gold;
  • 916 fineness – 91.6% gold;
  • 999 fineness – 99.9% gold.

However, “more gold” and “better for everyday wear” are not the same thing. Pure gold is soft and very malleable. For this reason, in jewelry making, it is alloyed with other metals to achieve the specific properties required for a particular piece. For example, when it comes to a ring worn daily, it’s not just the percentage of gold that matters, but also:

  • the composition of the alloy;
  • the thickness of the ring;
  • the construction;
  • the surface finish;
  • stone setting;
  • and the wearer’s lifestyle.

You can find a detailed comparison of gold finenesses in our article “Gold Fineness and Composition”.

Myth #3: If a piece of jewelry is marked “585,” it is definitely 585-fineness gold

This number alone is not enough. The numbers “585,” “750,” or the markings “14K” and “18K” may indicate the declared gold content, but the number itself does not confirm who stamped it or under what circumstances. In Lithuania, the fineness of a precious metal is confirmed by a control hallmark issued by an independent hallmarking supervision authority authorized by the state, or by a corresponding control hallmark from another country that is recognized in Lithuania. Therefore, when purchasing jewelry of unknown origin, it is worth considering more than just the single visible number. Pay attention to:

  • fineness marks and other hallmarks;
  • the information provided on the product label;
  • the seller;
  • the product’s origin;
  • documents, if applicable to the specific product.

Myth #4: You can test real gold by biting it

This is not a reliable method for testing gold. The myth likely arose because pure gold is soft. However, modern gold jewelry is mostly made from alloys, and their hardness depends on the specific composition. Furthermore, other metals can be similarly soft, and the surface of a gold-plated item may visually resemble gold. By biting a piece of jewelry, you may:

  • deform its surface;
  • damage the design;
  • loosen the setting of gemstones;
  • chip a tooth.

If you have any doubts about the authenticity or fineness of the gold, it’s much more reliable to consult specialists. The composition of precious metals can be analyzed using professional methods, including X-ray fluorescence analysis and other laboratory tests. So, the scene in a movie where a person bites a coin and immediately realizes it’s gold is not a reliable method of verification in real life.

Myth #5: White gold is the same as silver or platinum

No. These are three different materials:

  • White gold is an alloy of gold that uses other metals to achieve its color.
  • Silver is a separate chemical element and is often used in jewelry, such as 925 sterling silver.
  • Platinum is also a separate precious metal with its own fineness system and physical properties.

Visually, these metals may look similar, especially when white gold is rhodium-plated, but their composition is not the same.

Myth #6: If a piece of jewelry is made of real gold, it won’t scratch or change its appearance

Not true. Gold is not an indestructible metal. A gold ring worn daily may:

  • get scratched;
  • lose some of its polished luster;
  • develop fine indentations;
  • become deformed from strong mechanical impact.

This does not necessarily mean that the piece of jewelry is of poor quality or fake. This is especially common on rings and bracelets that are constantly in contact with tables, doorknobs, utensils, and other surfaces.

White gold has another characteristic—if its surface is coated with rhodium, this coating may wear off over time. As a result, the alloy underneath may appear to have a slightly warmer hue. Therefore, even high-quality gold jewelry requires proper care.

To learn how to safely clean gold and jewelry set with various gemstones, read the guide “How to Care for Jewelry”.

Myth #7: All gold jewelry is hypoallergenic

Not always. Pure gold and gold alloys are not the same thing. In jewelry-grade gold alloys, other metals make up part of the composition. Depending on the specific alloy, these may include, for example, copper, silver, palladium, or nickel. Therefore, a person’s reaction may be related not to the gold itself, but to another component of the alloy. This is particularly relevant for certain white gold alloys, which may contain nickel.

If you know you’re sensitive to a specific metal, it’s worth checking not only the fineness and color of the jewelry but also the composition of the alloy before purchasing it.

How can you recognize high-quality gold jewelry?

Color or luster alone says little about a piece’s quality. When choosing, consider the following:

1. Information about the metal

It should be clear what metal the piece is made of and what its fineness is.

2. Markings

Don’t limit yourself to just the number “585” or “750.” Pay attention to the item’s complete markings and its origin.

3. Workmanship

Check:

  • whether there are any sharp edges;
  • whether the clasp functions properly;
  • whether the stones are loose;
  • whether the surface is finished evenly;
  • whether the ring is misshapen.

4. The Purpose of the Jewelry

A very delicate piece may be perfect for special occasions, but it may not be the most practical choice for someone who wants to wear it every day.

5. Maintenance Requirements

Different designs, gold colors, and gemstones require varying levels of care. If you want to reduce the likelihood of scratches and other damage, it’s helpful to know how to properly store and care for jewelry.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is white gold real gold?

Yes. White gold is an alloy of gold with other metals that give it a lighter color. For example, 585-fine white gold contains 58.5% pure gold—the same amount as 585-fine yellow or rose gold.

Is 585 fineness better than 375?

585 fineness contains more pure gold—58.5%—compared to 37.5% in 375 fineness. However, the word “better” cannot be determined by fineness alone. The quality of a piece of jewelry also depends on its design, alloy, intended use, and manufacturing quality.

Does the “585” mark alone prove that a piece of jewelry is truly made of gold?

No. The number itself only indicates the possible fineness of the alloy. When assessing a product’s fineness, official hallmarks and the product’s origin are important.

Does real gold scratch easily?

Yes. Gold is a relatively soft metal, so even genuine, high-quality gold jewelry can become scratched or lose some of its surface luster with use.

Can you wear gold and silver jewelry together?

Yes. There are no technical rules in jewelry that prohibit combining different colors or different metals in a single look. It’s a matter of style.

Choose gold based on facts, not myths

The quality of a gold piece of jewelry isn’t determined solely by its color, the highest possible karat, or its impressive luster. It’s much more important to understand what alloy the piece is made of, how it’s marked, what it will be used for, and the quality of its craftsmanship.

Browse Auksinės Svajonės’ gold jewelry or consult a jeweler if you have questions about a specific item’s fineness, alloy, care, or suitability for everyday wear.

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